Mesut had a full day planned for us, so we were up with the roosters and ready for action. Unfortunately, breakfast was not. We were supposed to eat at and leave at 7:30, but we didn't end up eating until 7:30 and then not leaving until 8. Now, that may not seem like a drastic difference, but in Istanbul, traffic is horrific. Those of you who ride the 8 West freeway in the morning or the 805 north would be the envy of commuters in Istanbul.
Due to the time that was drained from us on the roads, we were unable to meet our appointment at Zaman newspaper. If you are not familiar with them, they are one of the best sources of news in Turkey and they are not linked to the government. Freedom of the press is unfortunately not a luxury enjoyed in Turkey.
We ended up going instead to Fatih University, our second appointment, which was a bit of a drive anyway. The day was already half way taken by the time we reached the university, but the meeting ended up being very rich. Fatih is a university that teaches universal and inclusive education. The student population is extremely diverse, which is understandable considering that over 114 countries are represented by those students. You can tell by the paintings in the main entrance alone that this university's focus is on producing students who are open minded, well educated, and aware of the world around them.
We had a meeting with a professor and a high ranking member of the admin. We discussed the programs, academically and socially available to the students. The students are extremely well trained in their fields of study and they are also exposed to the wide range of issues in the world. However, political activism can not be apart of student life in Turkey, due to reasons beyond the capacity of the schools to address.
We were particularly interested in the way that the students are encouraged to celebrate their differences by learning about each other. The students come from a number of countries that have been at odds with one another, but there are no issues between the students, only friendship. The administer suggested that I come back and do research on their model of building bridges and I just may have to.
We were taken to the student social justice organization that has hosted a number of fundraising and awareness events in the mere 18 years that the school has been in operation.
The wall highlighting a number of the evenets that the student run org has organized.
We then proceeded to the global studies room where a large map stood with big red pins sticking out of it indicating where the international students were from. The USA was represented on the map, which was encouraging. The previous university that we visited did not as of yet have any American students. For my teen readers, look internationally for universities. Most have English taught alssrooms, but don't forget to look into that somewhat important detail.
We explored the campus a little bit and after I made a suggestion that a mound of dirt on campus be turned into a sustainability garden (had to let my California roots be exposed at some point during this venture), we loaded back in the bus and headed off to see the Grand Bazaar. Shoppin' time.
In the heart of Istanbul, right across the street from that bustling fish market we visited on our second day, is the world famous Grand Bazaar. I was excited for this part, not so much for the shopping, but to see the vendors, their products, to weave among the crowds. To watch, to observe, to see, listen, smell. And it was awesome.
I was sooo enchanted by the experience, that I forgot to take photos, but I'm sure my companions took quite a few and I'll eventually post those on here. However, this is the mosque beside the bazar and it was the most beautiful that we visited yet. We visited the beautiful mosque after the bazaar and we all took a moment to appreciate that we were in a mosque on September 11th. My companions and I said many times that there was no better place for us to be than in a primarily Muslim country on 9/11. For the sake of our country's continued healing process and for the continuation of building bridges between cultures, more and more of these types of immersion activities are needed. Again, as the famous philosopher Fethullah Gulen said, "Muslims are not terrorists, and terrorists are not Muslim." (I'm going to tell more about Mr. Gulen tomorrow, but if you're curious about him and cannot wait, look up his book "Love & Tollerance". It's a beautiful read.)
How to describe the Grand Bazaar?
If you've been to China town in New York City during the summer time, consider that a quaint version of the GB. The majority of the popular vendors are in a covered atrium. Aisles upon aisles weave this way and that with a hundred vendors on either side runnning this way and that. Thousands of people occupy the space, some trying to buy, many trying to sell. Men called "teamen" run around with a dozen glass tea cups filled to the top on a dangling tray. I asked one of the vendors how that is possible and he responded, "That's nothing. The real good teamen can spin the whole tray over their head and not spill a drop." I think I could take about three steps and then manage to destroy every last cup through a series of unfortunate events.
One gentlemen we passed at a shop asked a lady, "Hello, how can I take your money today?" He made us all laugh and smile and you could tell that was his ploy.
Every spice you could imagine lined the walkways in tall overflowing barrels. Olives, cheeses, honey, honey comb, were laid out in beautiful displays. Every type of Turkish delight you could imagine were sold in a variety of packs and sizes. Much more of the shops than I realized sold high quality items, like purses, linens, attire. But of course there were your typical touristy items, knock-offs, and your general chotskies. Mesut caught one vender trying to sell California figs as Turkish figs. The vender blushed and proceded to push another product.
We walked out from the central bazaar to the surrounding streets where the air was fresher and the products more diverse and practical. I came close to buying a pair of pants and a tea set, but I didn't want to carry it, so I held my money. We went to a fresh orange juice stand and everyone was able to enjoy some freshly squeezed orange juice, pulpy goodness and all!
As we were heading out we were stopped by a vendor selling those alien like head massagers. Mesut had never seen one before and the vendor did the demonstration on him. Margie bought one on the spot, but without any of us realizing it until later, Mesut purchased one too and was happily walking down the street massaging his head as he went. These items are attention grabbers - Margie had hers out and a different vendor stopped her on the street. "Is that one of those massagers?!" he asked, unable to contain his curiosity and excitement. He used it and we all had a good laugh.
Some people might find the bazaar to be an overwhelming experience and they may think that all of the vendors are greedy individuals looking for anyway to rob you, but that was not what I felt at all. I found the vendors to be extremely friendly and great fun. I greeted them all in Turkish and if I did not get the opportunity to say hi first many of them greeted me in Spanish. The language either way would start conversation and while my companions were window shopping, I had many great brief conversations with the vendors. I did end up purchasing a lovely porcelein plate.
Friends that we knew from the States met us at the bazaar and came to dinner with us. The bus ride to the restaurant was terrifying - people walk out in front of cars with a "you won't hit me" 'tude. Oslam, our friend who met us, told me that many people in Istanbul die because of car v. pedestrian accidents. While a terribly sad fact, after what I'd seen I wasn't surprised. On this car ride alone, our driver made a U-turn on a steep hill across traffic in a big, top heavy van. It was one of those moments where you want to watch, but you're afraid to see what will happen. I was just grateful that we had seatbelts.
And then it was time to go back to the dorm and crash. We had one more day of meetings for which to prepare.
Until next time my dear readers..
Your humble author,
S. Faxon
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